Island escape

I planned a holiday this summer to Orkney as I have neglected it in favour of Shetland. Then the line-up for Fiddle Frenzy in Shetland was announced. My trip became 4 days in Shetland and 3 days in Orkney. To see some of my favourite fiddlers play close to home seemed worth it. And it definitely was.

I took the overnight ferry up to Shetland. The weather was so beautiful that I was able to relax on the upper deck late into the evening. 

Each day I enjoyed a walk during the day with a gig in the evening (all except one night). I designed my walks based on destinations this time, instead of around photography or wildlife watching. At this point, I could write a novel about the natural beauty in Shetland. I've already talked about a wee bit on this blog. I'll leave it at that since there are great resources online to find out about the place.

Highlights included my first hare sighting...

The heather is just coming in...

Vocal friends...

An intact mill stone on Muckle Roe...

Clouds...

Belmont, Unst

Fiddle Frenzy is a week long fiddle school to learn the traditional Shetland tunes and musical traditions. While I have no ability to join the fiddle school, they put on evening concerts with tickets available to anyone. Three immediately caught my eye. One of my all time favourite bands, Fiddler's Bid. First opportunity to see the legendary Aly Bain and Phil Cunningham. Chance to see a full show by Lau. All three shows were incredible. Tremendous performances. It was my first time in the venue, Mareel. There is no bad seat in the auditorium and the acoustics are great. 

Sunset from Scalloway

I even had a celebrity sighting. The main Shetland pony in this video that went viral on YouTube was downtown modeling a lovely fair isle cardigan. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekr05T9Iaio

That was me in Shetland. A short plane ride and I had my first taste of Orkney. I chose to stay in Stromness. The town has lovely character with beautiful views towards Hoy. I took the opportunity to visit the active dig on the Ness of Brodgar. It was fascinating to hear about their recent findings and watch the activity (they are keeping a dig diary online).

Ness of Brodgar

Orkney has so much history and so much more to unearth. This particular site is massive- figure about 3 football pitches in size. They are working on a number of structures concurrently. My day started here and then a walk along the loch, (the ness has lochs on either side) full of wildflowers and butterflies, to the Ring of Brodgar. Large standing stone circle.

Ring of Brodgar

Upon walking back I also passed standing stones on the other side of the dig and back to the main road. Turns out you can get the bus to stop anywhere along its route. The bus drivers must get so tired of communicating this to riders because it is just so hard for many of us tourists to get used to.

I treated myself to a lovely B&B on my final days and was rewarded with breakfasts of crab claws, smoked mackerel, smoked salmon, oatcakes, home made bere bannocks, orkney cheese, and hams. Yum.

The next day I had a choice. I could go to the yearly county fair where people come from far to attend. I knew there would be beautiful crafts and lots to see. This was also my only opportunity to go walk on the island of Hoy. I chose the walk. A handful of us boarded the ferry in the morning to head over to the island where we were greeted by most of the island boarding the ferry back to attend the fair. It was incredibly quiet on the island. Cafe closed. No van to ferry people to Rackwick. Through periodic rain showers, we made our way to our planned destinations. Most towards Rackwick. A few to the top of the hills. My destination was the Old Man of Hoy. A distinct and beautiful stack near Rackwick. It is a great walk and fun to compare notes with the others as we met on the beach by the ferry dock. Although swarms of midges would send us dancing in various directions occasionally.

Graemsay

Old Man Of Hoy

Old schoolhouse

Once again we swapped places with the locals on the ferry. Hoy was my favourite place in Orkney due to its hills. But I really barely scratched the surface of the place.

I made a few visits to Kirkwall to have some delicious food. St Magnus Cathedral is one of the most beautiful cathedrals I have ever seen.

My final destination before the airport- the home of my favourite whisky, Highland Park. I was not able to get a tour because a cruiseliner with ~3,000 people had descended on Kirkwall. I was happy to do a little shopping and escape to the airport.