Weaving light

I am always casting my eyes towards Isles. What is the draw? Is it the inescapable realization that you are surrounded by the power of the sea? Is it the unique characteristics of a community that is geographically held together? Is it the spirit of islanders who make the most of the resources available? Or is it just so I can have an excuse to ride on a ferry?  This trip (taken back in April) meant riding on the most posh ferry I have been on in Scotland. With never enough time to explore, I made a sprint for the Outer Hebrides to the Isle of Lewis and Harris on a 4 day holiday weekend.

Leaving Glasgow after work, I headed into the Highlands to be cover about half the distance to the ferry. It is about a 5.5 hour drive to the ferry terminal on the Isle of Skye. From there, the ferry is about 1.5 hours to reach Tarbert on Harris. Harris is not its own Isle. It is attached to Lewis - Lewis in the north and Harris in the south. The portion of the isle that is Harris has some distinct features - north Harris is more mountainous while south Harris has numerous sandy beaches and lochans.

Ferry in the harbour at Tarbert, Harris

If you are a bit of a textile nut like me, you have probably heard of Harris Tweed. All official Harris Tweed is woven here. To protect the heritage, livelihood, and tradition of weaving here, the Harris Tweed Act was enacted in 1993. Its purpose is to maintain the authenticity, standard, and reputation of Harris Tweed. It means that any tweed marked with the Harris Tweed logo has been designed and handwoven by a weaver on Harris as well as passing quality inspection. The skill and artistry of the weavers is beautiful. It has been practiced in families for generations. It didn't take me long to decide I wanted to piece of tweed to remember my trip. I went to the local tourist shop. When I couldn't find the size I wanted, the woman kindly pointed out they had more across the road. Enter the room and in front of me, rolls of tweed from floor to ceiling, so many different designs and colours. Beautiful.

From the moment I arrived, I felt like I could feel the rhythm of the looms...the shuttle working its way back and forth, weaver working the foot pedals. 

Although sheep are everywhere, the Isle cannot produce enough for the weavers. So wool does come from mainland Scotland to be prepared and woven.

Harris is one of the most beautiful places I have visited. I can only imagine the natural beauty and colours play some part in inspiring the weavers in their designs. I am drawn to blue tones. 

There is a gorgeous book put together by a photographer, Ian Lawson, who spent time in Harris. For some photos that really capture the beauty of the place, visit his Go to the Land website. 

I stayed in a guest house on the west side of Harris. Great place and fabulous dinners offered. The dinners were an opportunity to talk with other visitors and locals, everything from UK politics to deciphering the various religions on the Isle to fishing industry and providing options for those who want to make a living on the isle. Gaelic is still spoken. Lovely to hear it in the house. 

There was one historic site on my agenda for the weekend. The Callanish Stones on Lewis. It is not just a stone circle. The stones are arranged in a cruciform pattern with the stone circle in the centre. Hard time wrapping my head around how long these have been standing and what life was like when they were first positioned.

Callanish Stones

Standing stone at Callanish

Nothing left on my agenda except to walk. With so much beauty about, no risk of a miss-step.

There was still snow on some of the hills so I picked an easy one. It didn't take long for me to end up in cloud. Occasionally a teasing glimpse of what I am sure would have been glorious views along the ridge I walked. But there is something about walking in the mist. Features come drifting into view. It seems even quieter somehow. By map and compass, I found all the cairns along my route and descended from the mist exactly where I expected. Nice to check my skills even though there was no risk if I had drifted off track in this case.

Love these colours!

Glad this one was busy getting some energy while I found my way out the gate. (they are gentle but I don't want to mess with those horns!)

Evening beach walks. Four days I won't forget.