Shetland Rambles

Shetland is a magical place. The first time I visited, my cheeks were sore from smiling all week. Now on my 4th visit, I still walk with a ridiculous grin on my face. For me, it isn't just one aspect of the place. It is the people. It is the combination of changing light against the texture of land and sea. It is the wildlife. It is the miles upon miles of coastline, isolated beaches, dramatic cliffs, moors, lochs. It is the weather. It is the diverse geology. It is the long history of human life on this land. And so much more.

My plan for this trip was to relax, recharge, be inspired, enjoy some cherished spots, and explore some new rambles. Past trips of mine have incorporated a better balance of the Shetland's diversity. These blog posts don't represent the richness of the place but there are wonderful resources online to learn more.

The flight from Glasgow is just over an hour. I much prefer the overnight ferry from Aberdeen but found flying the best option this time. I was the oddity on the flight.  Most were "oil and gas" men coming for work. As we descended into Sumburgh airport in a mild wind, I was relaxed and happy while the man next to me grabbed the arm rest with white knuckles and seemed to want to get on with his work. I just hope he never has to fly when it is actually windy.

Energy is big business in Shetland. The Sullom Voe terminal on the north end of the Shetland mainland has been receiving oil for about 34 years from the North Sea oil fields. With new exploration and a shift to tap into oil fields on the west of Shetland, the industry is booming and there is talk of bringing in floating accommodation to house the workers needed to renovate the terminal over the next few years. I admit I have tried to ignore that there is off shore drilling going on. I have avoided any areas with views of the terminal. All while enjoying the freedom of a car and nicely paved roads funded in part from the revenue of this terminal. I am a hypocrite. What I am pleased about is that due to the foresight in establishing the Zetland County Council Act of 1974, the local council secured control on development around the Isles and a substantial income stream from the oil and gas industry. A rare example of the local community truly benefitting from its natural resources.

Even with the outlook that oil and gas will continue to boom possibly until 2050 in the area, there is a large focus on developing renewable energy sources. Particularly controversial at the moment is a 103-turbine wind farm planned for central Shetland. The target date is November 2018 for it to be connected to the national grid but there is a current judicial review of a claim that they have not complied with regards to the potential impact on the whimbrel. If this project moves forward, it lays the foundation for Shetland being a major provider of wind and wave energy to the UK.

With Shetland's energy assets and the nature of the Act of 1974, Shetland is in a unique position as Scotland considers its independence. The whole question of independence is a fascinating topic but worthy of its own post(s).

While the energy talk seemed to be dominated by oil, gas, wind and wave, I noticed quite a few homes sporting solar panels.

Back to my trip...

The rocks, heather, sand, wildlife....it surrounds you from the moment you arrive. If you rent a car from the airport, you get to drive across the runway to head north. Off to Lerwick to get settled in the guest house. A visit to the Co-op to get yummy lemon cake made in the Walls Bakery. Walk along Commercial Street to replace a beloved worn out pair of wool gloves and to buy fudge. All set for the week.

Normally this warning on the dash of the hired car applies but in my 6 day visit, there just a wisp of wind. It was a bit eerie.

I decided on my destination for the next day but when I started off, I ended up driving to one of the places most dear to me, the coastline from Stenness beach to Hillswick in Northmavine.

It wasn't really this dark. I have manipulated the photo for dramatic effect. Many of my photos this trip revolve around this island, Dore Holm.

This is another view of Dore Holm without dramatic effect.  I noticed some new rocks on this shore.  This is the same coast line that was pictured here a few weeks ago.

Nice to have a beacon along the route...

My daily plan:

Pour over a map of the general area that I want to explore and pick out a few potential walks.

Find a place to tuck the car.

Navigate fences to get away from homesteads. I'm not a giant. Some I can straddle, some take a well timed hop. The lovely stiles, like the one pictured, are a welcome sight.  This one also has a marker to guide you in a certain direction.

I am relieved that I have finally figured out how to find a route back to the car without ending up in someone's hen house/chicken coup.  On a past trip, it took me about a week before I managed this. I can just imagine the owner laughing from their window as I walk in circles trying to find my way out of their enclosures.

Da Drongs from Braewick

Braewick Beach

Near the Neap, Northmavine

The Neap, Northmavine

That evening I drove to St. Ninian's Isle to walk the tombolo. I almost drove off the road as it came into view. The sun beams as the sun was setting were amazing. The photo does not even come close to capturing the sight. Frustrating.

St. Ninian's Isle is a striking place regardless of the weather and I have included a photo from a past visit.

Tombolo in August

Sun beams in February